A few weeks ago my husband and I had the pleasure of dining again with friends at Simone's Plain and Simple in Wellman, Iowa. We have dined there several times before (see http://alltheingredients.typepad.com/weblog/2007/06/plain_and_simpl.html ), but have never had the wonderful pizza Simone bakes in her brick oven in the yard. This time we had the pizza.
My daughter accuses me of being a "coffee snob" because I know exactly how I like my cafe au lait, and will only drink it one way when I order it in a coffee shop. However, I have definitely become a pizza snob. I want specific things out of my pizza: I prefer my crust thin; I want the tomato sauce (if there is one) not to have sugar in it--I want to taste the actual tomatoes; I want good quality cheese, whatever type; and I want fresh toppings--meat, vegetable, or both. This is not the kind of pizza my children like.
The last time we had take-out pizza from someplace they picked, the dough was soft and chewy, the sauce sweet, and the cheese an amalgamated melted mess on the surface. The pepperoni pizza had neat rounds sealed under the cheese topping, and tasted no differently from the plain cheese pizza. Both were greasy and awful. I would rather not eat pizza than eat what passes for pizza in the middle America town where we live. I am now a card-carrying pizza snob. So I was more than a little excited to have Simone's pizza cooked in her brick, European-style oven.
The pizza was sublime. The simple crust was rolled extremely thin and topped conservatively. As Simone said, "There is no pizza supreme here." The up side of this was with only three or four items on top of each type of pizza, you could taste the freshness of each. Not a single pizza she served even had any tomato sauce, and only the Pizza Margherita had any tomatoes at all.
Simone's brick oven was heated with wood burnt into fiery red coals, and was approximately 700 degrees, so the thin crust cooked quickly and was almost cracker crisp. Toppings included onions, escargot, creme freche thinned with a little Greek yogurt, walnuts, Gorgonzola, Parmesan cheese, and wilted greens, all in various combinations. Only the Pizza Margherita bore any resemblance to pizzas I have eaten before. Walnuts on pizza was a completely new and unexpected taste sensation. By the time the pizza roasted in the oven, the walnuts (coupled with the wilted greens and Gorgonzola) were also roasted and sizzling. The combination of tastes and textures was addictive. I came home wanting my own brick pizza oven.
Then I found a new book in the grilling section at the bookstore where I work, Pizza on the Grill, by Elizabeth Karmel and Bob Blumer. Whenever I have grilled pizza before, I have ended up with a burnt crust and underdone toppings. With it's "1-2-3" method, Pizza on the Grill solves that problem. First you cook your pizza on one side over indirect heat, coals on one side, pizza on the other. (The illustrations and directions in the book are for both gas and charcoal grills.) Then you remove it, flip the pizza over, put on your toppings, and slide the pizza back on the grill, lid down, to cook the rest of the way. A pizza takes roughly 7-12 minutes, start to finish, with any meat toppings pre-cooked. I made cheese pizza with a rough tomato sauce from organic canned, fire-roasted tomatoes, and the sweet sausage and pepper pizza from the book. I also made a roasted veggie pizza using leftover vegetables that I had grilled two days earlier. And, inspired by Simone, I made a tomato sauce, hazelnut, and gorgonzola pizza which was fabulous.
The recipe in the book produces a crust that is thin and crispy, and if you pull the pizza directly over the coals for a minute or so at the end, you get a nicely browned bottom crust. The pizzas end up being oblong instead of round to fit half of the grill--something everyone commented on.
My husband said it was the best pizza I had ever made--he especially liked the sweet sausage topping. The kids didn't like it, I think, because of the slightly smokey taste in the crust. But it is now my new favorite way to make pizza.
Although I still have my eye on the $2,000 terra-cotta beehive pizza oven that Williams Sonoma sells...